Rome
A loud, aggressive, dirty city that is smattered with so many historical landmarks, it's basically 496 square miles of sacred land. A cultural mecca, yet unlike a comparable urban melting pot such as New York City, tourists from around the world really have no choice but to live by the all-too-true motto 'When in Rome'. A burger and fries or a big, fat burrito American style, are nowhere to be found. Pizza, pasta, bruschetta, and panini shacks dot every corner like Starbucks in Manhattan.
Mineral water is the non-alcoholic beverage of choice (tourists need to triple check for 'no gas' water before drinking), bicyclists don't wear helmets (a shocking and horrifying discovery after observing the 'Italian way' of driving), and coffee drinks aren't pumped out and downed by the gallon as they are in the States. A lovely habit I would personally like to continue back home! Finally, the verbal maelstrom complete with thrashing hands, is a typical observation of any Italian conversation; even after 10 days, I was still tense everytime I caught the playful banter taking place.
These minor cultural differences are the reasons us tourists and travelers take the leap across the pond (or for some, the reasons to avoid said leap). Sure the landmarks that date back thousands of years are fascinating and worth the trip alone, but the experiences from traveling internationally and emersing oneself into an unfamiliar culture (and likely unfamiliar language) is where the knowledge, adventures, and memories come in. Might I add, the guaranteed occasional travel 'hiccup', which we have all experienced and hopefully can chuckle about in the near future. Worry not, I've got a few to add to the bucket...
Arriving in any international destination is stressful and tiring in and of itself. Travelers are vulnerable, and naive at times, and unfortunately it's probably safe to say there will always be people who will take advantage of that. The first mistake we made was to veer from our original plan of taking the Leonardo Express train from the airport to Termini station, and instead, hop in a 'private shuttle' that promised to take us directly to our spot for a flat rate. After 2 hours and several circles around the same block, we got out and took to the streets ourselves. For those who haven't had the pleasure of navigating the winding streets of Rome, the map is like a jigsaw puzzle. That being said, we folded and hailed a taxi.
We had the pleasure of spending our first couple nights in Rome, in someone's apartment found on the website www.airbnb.com. Nifty little tool that is! Strongly recommended for those who prefer to get a taste of the local vibe and avoid the touristy feeling hotels tend to give. We ambitiously covered most of the hotspots on our 'to-see' list within the first 2 days but this goal could easily be spread out into a leisurely week. Because of the history and sheer beauty in most of the Roman attractions, the ungodly amount of people milling and herding about didn't deter us from personally visiting each spot on our hotlist.
The Colosseum is such a fascinating architectural masterpiece, it's easy to be taken away by its beauty and block out (albeit momentarily) what appears to be a carnival going on around it. While the Trevi Fountain is a magical sight, the tourist masses that surround it at any given hour during the day definitely take some of the glory away. A suggestion: visit the Trevi at night, after 9 or 1opm. The glow of the water and the (hopefully) more serene setting will make you want to pull out a sleeping bag and settle in. Piazza Novona, a favorite of mine, is an absolutely charming (but quite large) square dotted with glorious fountains and lined with outdoor restaurants and cafes. A perfect spot to take a break from the sight-seeing, cool off with gelato or campari soda, and people watch...for hours. A final shout out in my handful of favorites, the Spanish Steps. I had visited the steps years ago, during the day, with what felt like every other tourist in Rome at the time, and I was honestly unmoved. This time, following a tip from Shawn's uncle, we brought a bottle of wine and a couple glasses to the top of the steps right around sundown. Now that was moving. Yes, the steps were still bustling, but the people watching was phenomenal and everyone was leisurely enjoying their beverage of choice and sharing the evening with fellow travelers from around the world. A truly memorable moment!
As much as we wanted to splurge and dive into the cuisine that every adorable outdoor cafe or restaurant had to offer, we were, afterall, travelers on a budget. However, one 'special' meal is a must when visiting a new place! Although there's not a whole lot that typically sets one outdoor restaurant apart from another one 10 feet away, we do like to think that we hand-picked one of the best :) Re degli Amici serves your typical Romanesca cuisine, exactly what we were looking for. Un litre di vino rosso, prosciutto parma, pizza di regina (no-sauce pizza with tuna, tomatoes, onions, and olive oil), and denti di elefante (seafood pasta) made for a truly sublime experience. No need for another 'splurge' to muttle the memory of that meal. Rome had left us visually satisfied and physically satiated. Va bene!
Florence & Tuscany
Upon arriving in Florence, I was delighted to find many of the city's characteristics differ from those of Rome. Refreshing! Florence welcomed us with fewer cars (more scooters), countless market-filled streets, a plethora of patisseries (to my pleasant surprise!), and a slightly more 'welcomed' feel than the loud, racing streets of Rome. The Florentine cuisine seemed to offer a bit more variety to its international visitors than Rome, but it is understood that the center of any major tourist city is not always an accurate example of what the entire city has to offer. Regardless, it is a lovely city, accomodating to those on foot, and its modest size makes it easy to cover in a couple of days.
Unlike our 'to see' list for Rome, we weren't very prepared to tour Florence and hit all of the hotspots. The massive Duomo is by far the main attraction, and what felt like the social hub of the city. Climb the 460 steps to the top, for a stunning panoramic view of the city and a sea of terra cotta roofs. There is also a chance to view the entire city from atop the hill at the Piazza Michelangelo, an area referred to by the locals as 'the Beverly Hills of Florence'.
Another plus to Florence is its proximity to the unending rolling hills and breathtaking beauty of Tuscany! A day trip into Tuscany is an absolute must, especially if you're staying in Florence. Better yet? A bike tour through Tuscany. You'll be pinching yourself. Tuscany Bike Tours is a fantastic organization run by 2 guys, energetic and friendly as can be, with a perfect day in mind. For a modest 80 euro, they drive you 40 minutes outside of Florence, into the Tuscan hills and up through the winding streets to Castelle di Poppiano. Both a castle where royalty reside, as well as an olive oil mill and winery. A fascinating tour followed by a mid-morning 'Tuscan snack' of bread, olive oil, and wine was a fitting substitution for carbo-loading before mounting the bikes.
A rather leisure 13 mile ride with a classic Tuscan lunch of pasta in between, left me wondering if I just dreamt the last 8 hours of my life. An extraordinary way to explore majestical land!
Cinque Terre
"The Five Lands." Lacking any visible 'modern development', the stretch of five villages that make up Cinque Terre in the Italian Riviera is undoubtedly the most beautiful, awe-inspiring piece of land I have ever witnessed with my own eyes. The colorful housing stacked up on cliffs, with the turquoise sea glistening below is a picture many may think could only be imagined. Running from north to south, the five towns that make up this paradise are: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Trains and ferry boats connect the five villages, but the greatest (and most adventurous) option are the rugged hiking trails that line the coast. How could anyone pass an experience like that up?! Each hike between towns varies in intensity and incline; from a paved path connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola, to an extremely steep and narrow stretch between Vernazza and Monterosso, the total time it takes to hike the entire five towns is roughly 5 hours. I would strongly recommend NOT hiking it all at once, as visiting each town and getting a glimpse of the different personalities is the best part!
Due to a 'hiccup' train strike (apparently a common practice that lasts 24 hrs), we were stalled in La Spezia and advised to take a taxi to our destination. Of course our destination was almost 50 miles away, so our only option was to share a 90 euro taxi ride with two women heading to Monterosso. *Tip #367 - your plans WILL change-flexibility is essential when traveling abroad!* Little did we know, this was a blessing in disguise, giving us the opportunity to rest and soak in the fresh coastal air after a 45 minute stomach churning taxi ride through the mountains. With the help of a friendly couple (and a trusty Rick Steve's guidebook), we lucked out and snagged the last room at Albergo Marina hotel. A charming, clean, and very orderly hotel with a free continental breakfast and happy hour that go above and beyond even those in the States.
The rest of our time in Monterosso was spent exploring both the 'Old' and 'New' towns, lounging on the beach and in the bay, and wandering the narrow, colorful streets lined with pizza, wine, and non-tacky souvenir shops. This sprawling town was bustling with energy, and we would later discover that it is the largest of the five towns. Definitely the town to stay in if you typically try to avoid the quiet and quaint feel.
The Cinque Terre tourist information office helped us plot out our hiking route and equipped us with the 'Cinque Terre' pass to take to the trails (or use other modes of transportation between towns). Feeling like a couple of sherpas, we set out for the first leg of the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza with all of our belongings on our backs. A challenging hour and a half hike with many (literal) ups and downs, but the view of the coast along the way was the greatest distraction one could ask for. Once Vernazza's rounded bay came into view, it felt like we had been traveling up a rainbow and were approaching on the pot of gold! Arriving in Vernazza felt similar to that of Monterosso, but more of an intimate feel where everyone feels like extended family. Anxiously waiting to cool off, we dipped into the chilly Mediterranean and took the rest of the day to lounge by the water, drinks in hand, and people watch.
As much as these towns scream "Relax! You're in paradise!!", we had some major ground to cover the following day. I was determined to not only hit but rather visit and explore all five towns, so we started the grueling hike (sans the big backpacks!) from Vernazza to Corniglia. Due to a rockslide on the coastal path, we had the lovely option to take the steeper route half way, then walk the road as it descended into Corniglia. Aside from catching a glimpse of a wild boar, this hike was relatively uneventful as we were surrounded by brush and unable to see the coast. The arrival into Corniglia from the road was a bit anti-climactic but this town perched high on a cliff was charming as can be. Definitely the least energetic town of the five, but the touristy feel was almost non-existent and I appreciated that. A nice little panini lunch in the shade, and we were ready for the next leg!
Unfortunately, more rockslides between Corniglia and Manarola left us no other option but to take the train. Admittingly tired and sun-soaked, we willingly took the 3 minute train ride to Manarola, but luckily the path from the train station provided the exact view you can scroll to the top of this page and find! I FOUND IT! The town, the VIEW, I have been daydreaming about for years but never able to put a familiar name to it, was right in front of me. What a feeling! Manarola was, fittingly, one of my favorites. A delicious mix between the busy-ness of Monterosso, and the small village feel of Vernazza, squished into one beautiful setting! A decent sized bay but with large rocks, quarry-like, instead of a sand beach. Picturesque to say the least.
Exhausted, yes. Exhilerated, YES! One town left, and the final 'hike' was conveniently the easiest stretch of them all. Literally a paved path from Manrola to Riomaggiore, and by far the most populated paths we had come across yet. Riomaggiore held all of the aesthetic characteristics of the other 4 towns, yet the feeling of uniqueness was missing for me. Unable to pinpoint what it was, I chalked it up to a full day of amazing sights and adorable communities to the point where maybe it was all running together? A beautiful and bustling town that seemed to give off more of a touristy feel than the others. Regardless, this was the 5th and final stop in (my) quest to set foot in each gem of the Cinque Terre. I wanted to do it all over again. Alas, my body didn't, and we were ready for some much deserved food and relaxation, so we hopped the train back to Vernazza.
As I mentioned earlier, although we were travelers on a budget, we certainly did not fail to enjoy some memorable meals...in creative ways. From take-out pizza on the beach, to a make-shift meal of crackers, cheese, anchovies and wine on a terrace overlooking the sea, and even a special pasta meal in the center of Vernazza, we were simply in heaven.
A trip abroad is often perfect in anticipation, stressful, exhilerating, and even relaxing in the midst of it all, and a life-changing experience as a memory. Although the details didn't play out as we had naively imagined, it was a true adventure, and most definitely the trip of a lifetime. Although this was a trip I had been dreaming about for years, and prepared to view it as a 'once in a lifetime' trip, I do foresee a return trip in the future...
THIS is what I LOVE about traveling. The way it changes us, ever-so-slightly.
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