Friday, August 19, 2011

The City by the Bay

San Francisco. What is your first thought when you hear those two words? Sourdough bread? Trollies that roll up and down the countless hills of the city? The infamous Full House? The Golden Gate Bridge?! All, very valid images related to The City by the Bay. Mine, you ask? Why it's one of Jefferson Starship's hits, 'We Built This City' , of course! No explanation as to how or when this catchy tune got permanately paired with my image of San Francisco, but the tiny part of the lyrics that mention looking out onto the Golden Gate Bridge on a sunny Saturday, has nestled in and made a home in my brain forever. And I love it. Years after first hearing this ditty, I finally made it to 'Frisco' to experience the lyrics myself.

My first trip to San Francisco quickly brought me to the realization that just visiting this amazing city once, would NOT give it the final 'check' on the traveling bucketlist, opening up opportunities for other cities on the list to enjoy my future presence. Oh no. The city will be lucky to host me many times over again. There is simply too much to see and do in one, even two trips...and this isn't a city where you drive around and cram in as much sight-seeing as possible. Every point of interest is an experience in and of itself! From hiking and biking to wine tasting and culinary exploration, there's so much more to The City by the Bay than the infamous Piers and Fisherman's Wharf. Hop on a trolley and wander with me...


While the heart of the city has a hopping Union Square and bustling downtown, wandering along the water and bopping from Pier to Pier is what separates San Francisco from your typical urban jungle. Emerging from the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit)at the Embarcadero center just steps from the water, we were delighted to find a whole slew of stands; locals selling handmade jewelry and screen-printed shirts, to framed photos and touristy trinkets. Across the street sits the Ferry Building, buzzing with local foodies and tourists alike. This place reminds me of Quincy Market in Boston. One long corridor lined with gourmet food shops that could keep a foodie satisfied for days. But if you don't have days to spend in there, make sure to walk out with one thing: a 'meat cone' from Boccalone. I cannot personally vouch for it, but the giddyness that immediately followed Shawn's experience with it, definitely spoke for itself.

Wandering along the Piers with skyskrapers to your left and water to your right, there are plenty of distractions as you make your way to the bustling Fisherman's Wharf.
With roughly 1 million visitors each month, you can imagine this place is hoppin from sunrise to sunset. With a plethora of eating establishments, there are plenty of food choices in this area, but if you want a true San Franciscan experience, walk up to one of the many crab stands and buy a big ol' Dungeness crab! Watch them steam it, crack it, break it apart, and throw it in a basket with some lemons and cocktail sauce. Jackpot!

Moving along, with a full belly of crab, Ghiradelli Square is a perfect spot to stop, grab a coffee (or some free Ghiradelli chocolate!) and a spot on a bench at the top of the hill and do some quality people watching. Another hot touristy spot filled with vendors and lines to hop on the trollies, Ghiradelli Square is buzzing all day and lit up at night. Not to mention a beautiful view of the bay from the top. One of my favorite places!

Finally, the main reason for visiting this gem of a city, the 'glue' that holds it all together (literally)...the Golden Gate Bridge. Even the walk TO the Golden Gate Bridge from the Bay is glorious. Do NOT leave this city until you have either walked or driven the 1.7 miles over the bridge, and preferably catch some breathtaking views from the Vista Point. Even on a typical foggy day, when the city appears non-existent, you will have to catch your breath.

The breathtaking views from the Golden Gate Bridge may seem like all you need to take away from this little piece of heaven, but just you wait. There's more. Take an afternoon(or full day) break from the city's haze er...fog, and head about 20 minutes outside of the city to Muir Woods and put on your hiking shoes! You'd think you're almost 200 miles inland, hiking in Yosemite, but really you're only miles from the city nestled within hundreds of massive Redwoods. Take the opportunity to breathe in the fresh air, and 'become one' with nature before re-entering the hustle and bustle of city life.

After your hike head Southeast about 10 miles for some relaxation and reflection in the adorably quaint beach town of Tiburon. Grab a casual bite to eat on the doc of Sams Anchor Cafe, as you watch people dock their sailboats and meander in for a drink at sunset. After re-fueling, take a stroll on the boardwalk along the water, and soak in the last bit of peace and quiet before heading back to the Bay. Do not leave before the sun sets. You'll understand why.
As I promised, an amazing city with ample opportunities is like the gift that keeps on giving. Just. Can't. Get. Enough. Head an hour outside of the city and you'll find yourself in the town that lives by and looks like its name: Pleasanton! Complete with a charming main street, lined with sidewalk restaurants and frozen yogurt shops, you couldn't picture a more fitting town to live up to that name. Could it also be a coincidence that my friend Stacie, her husband JJ,(literally the nicest people in the world, and amazing hosts) and their unbelievably adorable son Ozzie live there? I think not. One of the best parts of this town? The Saturday morning farmers market. All of the fruits, vegetables, and homemade baked goods you can possibly imagine. Tip: don't even bother eating breakfast before heading to this neighborhood feast. Apparently it's common practice to hand out generous samples, so make your rounds and fill up!

As if all of the above wasn't enough to keep you busy and entertained for days on end, what trip to Northern California is complete without some wine tasting and rolling vineyards?! Whether you have a few days, or even a few hours to spare, the short (and beautiful) drive into Wine Country is so very worth it. The myraid of wineries can almost be overwhelming, and tastings can range from $5 with no reservations, to $50 with required reservations so do your research and map out a plan if you're on a budget or a schedule.

With such a variety of wineries to chose from, you are sure to find some that fit your 'level' of seriousness. From a 6-course dinner paired with different wines that will leave you feeling like a certified Sommelier, to a casual yet enchanting winery such as V.Sattui, that offers up a picturesque picnic area and a full deli to complete your modest yet memorable meal, pure contentment will inevitably set in. One of my favorite areas of Napa is Yountville. What feels like a small town in the middle of heaven, Yountville's main street is lined with both high-end and casual restaurants, gourmet food shops, charming boutiques, and of course a smattering of wineries. This is also the home of famed chef Thomas Keller's restaurant, French Laundry. With their tasting menu starting at a few hundred big ones, we decided to hold onto the dream, and fill up with more affordable nourishment: cookies from Bouchon Bakery. The line out the door says it all.

Clearly San Francisco has more to offer than I had ever imagined, and I cannot stop raving about it. I even came up with an 'excuse' to make almost annual trips there (aside from wonderful friends in Pleasanton), and started using this excuse for my most recent trip. Shawn and I signed up for the hilly San Francisco half marathon, and got Stacie in on the action too. What an incredible way to explore the city (not to mention distractions galor to take our minds off of the constant hills)! Lining up at 5am with the lights of the city and Bay Bridge as our backdrop was the greatest wake-up call we could've asked for. Running along the Pier, making our way to the Golden Gate Bridge as the sky slowly lightened, and the city started to stir, was the coolest feeling. I definitely see this 'excuse' being used again in the future.
As previous posts have revealed, my kind of trip is not worthy of a post unless food is included somewhere in the mix. While the meat cone was definitely a highlight for one of us, our dinner at Anchor & Hope on our last night in the city cannot go unmentioned. Let me rephrase that. Anchor & Hope deserves a damn Michelin Star as far as I am concerned. A tip from Shawn's friend brought us to this somewhat hidden spot practically in an alley just outside of the Financial District. An exposed warehouse feeling, made warm and intimate with low lights, candles, and unpretentious decor, this was definitely not a tourist hotspot, and we couldn't have been more pleased. Somehow making it back to our hotel in a hazy seafood coma, we escaped the 'last night in an amazing city and away from reality funk' and soaked in as much of the local scene as possible. Well damn done!


Maybe the half marathon is the perfect excuse to make San Francisco an annual trip. Afterall, I could probably dream up a different itinerary every year and never come up short in new spots to explore. Throw in a challenging yet rewarding race to satisfy my need for some activity, and I think I've got another 'lifer'. Now all I need is a travel fund that will magically refill itself...

Thursday, June 2, 2011

Italian Adventures!

The trip of a lifetime. Let me rephrase that. The trip of my lifetime. What used to be a grand idea and fantasy, slowly materialized into the visual theme of this blog (see stunning visual at the top of the page), several itinerary options, and finally a real, bona fide adventure! Staying true to my travel and exploration preferences of making any trip as active as possible, my fantasy trip to Italy included full-on backpacking through the breathtaking Cinque Terre. Combine that with some ambitious sightseeing in Rome and Florence, a dash of cycling through Tuscany, and you've got the recipe for 10 days in H-E-A-V-E-N. I would, however, be lying if I failed to note a few 'travel hiccups' thrown into the mix...otherwise it wouldn't be an adventure, right?? Let me indulge you...

Rome

A loud, aggressive, dirty city that is smattered with so many historical landmarks, it's basically 496 square miles of sacred land. A cultural mecca, yet unlike a comparable urban melting pot such as New York City, tourists from around the world really have no choice but to live by the all-too-true motto 'When in Rome'. A burger and fries or a big, fat burrito American style, are nowhere to be found. Pizza, pasta, bruschetta, and panini shacks dot every corner like Starbucks in Manhattan.
Mineral water is the non-alcoholic beverage of choice (tourists need to triple check for 'no gas' water before drinking), bicyclists don't wear helmets (a shocking and horrifying discovery after observing the 'Italian way' of driving), and coffee drinks aren't pumped out and downed by the gallon as they are in the States. A lovely habit I would personally like to continue back home! Finally, the verbal maelstrom complete with thrashing hands, is a typical observation of any Italian conversation; even after 10 days, I was still tense everytime I caught the playful banter taking place.

These minor cultural differences are the reasons us tourists and travelers take the leap across the pond (or for some, the reasons to avoid said leap). Sure the landmarks that date back thousands of years are fascinating and worth the trip alone, but the experiences from traveling internationally and emersing oneself into an unfamiliar culture (and likely unfamiliar language) is where the knowledge, adventures, and memories come in. Might I add, the guaranteed occasional travel 'hiccup', which we have all experienced and hopefully can chuckle about in the near future. Worry not, I've got a few to add to the bucket...

Arriving in any international destination is stressful and tiring in and of itself. Travelers are vulnerable, and naive at times, and unfortunately it's probably safe to say there will always be people who will take advantage of that. The first mistake we made was to veer from our original plan of taking the Leonardo Express train from the airport to Termini station, and instead, hop in a 'private shuttle' that promised to take us directly to our spot for a flat rate. After 2 hours and several circles around the same block, we got out and took to the streets ourselves. For those who haven't had the pleasure of navigating the winding streets of Rome, the map is like a jigsaw puzzle. That being said, we folded and hailed a taxi.



We had the pleasure of spending our first couple nights in Rome, in someone's apartment found on the website www.airbnb.com. Nifty little tool that is! Strongly recommended for those who prefer to get a taste of the local vibe and avoid the touristy feeling hotels tend to give. We ambitiously covered most of the hotspots on our 'to-see' list within the first 2 days but this goal could easily be spread out into a leisurely week. Because of the history and sheer beauty in most of the Roman attractions, the ungodly amount of people milling and herding about didn't deter us from personally visiting each spot on our hotlist.




The Colosseum is such a fascinating architectural masterpiece, it's easy to be taken away by its beauty and block out (albeit momentarily) what appears to be a carnival going on around it. While the Trevi Fountain is a magical sight, the tourist masses that surround it at any given hour during the day definitely take some of the glory away. A suggestion: visit the Trevi at night, after 9 or 1opm. The glow of the water and the (hopefully) more serene setting will make you want to pull out a sleeping bag and settle in. Piazza Novona, a favorite of mine, is an absolutely charming (but quite large) square dotted with glorious fountains and lined with outdoor restaurants and cafes. A perfect spot to take a break from the sight-seeing, cool off with gelato or campari soda, and people watch...for hours. A final shout out in my handful of favorites, the Spanish Steps. I had visited the steps years ago, during the day, with what felt like every other tourist in Rome at the time, and I was honestly unmoved. This time, following a tip from Shawn's uncle, we brought a bottle of wine and a couple glasses to the top of the steps right around sundown. Now that was moving. Yes, the steps were still bustling, but the people watching was phenomenal and everyone was leisurely enjoying their beverage of choice and sharing the evening with fellow travelers from around the world. A truly memorable moment!




As much as we wanted to splurge and dive into the cuisine that every adorable outdoor cafe or restaurant had to offer, we were, afterall, travelers on a budget. However, one 'special' meal is a must when visiting a new place! Although there's not a whole lot that typically sets one outdoor restaurant apart from another one 10 feet away, we do like to think that we hand-picked one of the best :) Re degli Amici serves your typical Romanesca cuisine, exactly what we were looking for. Un litre di vino rosso, prosciutto parma, pizza di regina (no-sauce pizza with tuna, tomatoes, onions, and olive oil), and denti di elefante (seafood pasta) made for a truly sublime experience. No need for another 'splurge' to muttle the memory of that meal. Rome had left us visually satisfied and physically satiated. Va bene!














Florence & Tuscany



Upon arriving in Florence, I was delighted to find many of the city's characteristics differ from those of Rome. Refreshing! Florence welcomed us with fewer cars (more scooters), countless market-filled streets, a plethora of patisseries (to my pleasant surprise!), and a slightly more 'welcomed' feel than the loud, racing streets of Rome. The Florentine cuisine seemed to offer a bit more variety to its international visitors than Rome, but it is understood that the center of any major tourist city is not always an accurate example of what the entire city has to offer. Regardless, it is a lovely city, accomodating to those on foot, and its modest size makes it easy to cover in a couple of days.



Unlike our 'to see' list for Rome, we weren't very prepared to tour Florence and hit all of the hotspots. The massive Duomo is by far the main attraction, and what felt like the social hub of the city. Climb the 460 steps to the top, for a stunning panoramic view of the city and a sea of terra cotta roofs. There is also a chance to view the entire city from atop the hill at the Piazza Michelangelo, an area referred to by the locals as 'the Beverly Hills of Florence'.



Another plus to Florence is its proximity to the unending rolling hills and breathtaking beauty of Tuscany! A day trip into Tuscany is an absolute must, especially if you're staying in Florence. Better yet? A bike tour through Tuscany. You'll be pinching yourself. Tuscany Bike Tours is a fantastic organization run by 2 guys, energetic and friendly as can be, with a perfect day in mind. For a modest 80 euro, they drive you 40 minutes outside of Florence, into the Tuscan hills and up through the winding streets to Castelle di Poppiano. Both a castle where royalty reside, as well as an olive oil mill and winery. A fascinating tour followed by a mid-morning 'Tuscan snack' of bread, olive oil, and wine was a fitting substitution for carbo-loading before mounting the bikes.

A rather leisure 13 mile ride with a classic Tuscan lunch of pasta in between, left me wondering if I just dreamt the last 8 hours of my life. An extraordinary way to explore majestical land!
Cinque Terre


"The Five Lands." Lacking any visible 'modern development', the stretch of five villages that make up Cinque Terre in the Italian Riviera is undoubtedly the most beautiful, awe-inspiring piece of land I have ever witnessed with my own eyes. The colorful housing stacked up on cliffs, with the turquoise sea glistening below is a picture many may think could only be imagined. Running from north to south, the five towns that make up this paradise are: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Trains and ferry boats connect the five villages, but the greatest (and most adventurous) option are the rugged hiking trails that line the coast. How could anyone pass an experience like that up?! Each hike between towns varies in intensity and incline; from a paved path connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola, to an extremely steep and narrow stretch between Vernazza and Monterosso, the total time it takes to hike the entire five towns is roughly 5 hours. I would strongly recommend NOT hiking it all at once, as visiting each town and getting a glimpse of the different personalities is the best part!





Due to a 'hiccup' train strike (apparently a common practice that lasts 24 hrs), we were stalled in La Spezia and advised to take a taxi to our destination. Of course our destination was almost 50 miles away, so our only option was to share a 90 euro taxi ride with two women heading to Monterosso. *Tip #367 - your plans WILL change-flexibility is essential when traveling abroad!* Little did we know, this was a blessing in disguise, giving us the opportunity to rest and soak in the fresh coastal air after a 45 minute stomach churning taxi ride through the mountains. With the help of a friendly couple (and a trusty Rick Steve's guidebook), we lucked out and snagged the last room at Albergo Marina hotel. A charming, clean, and very orderly hotel with a free continental breakfast and happy hour that go above and beyond even those in the States. The rest of our time in Monterosso was spent exploring both the 'Old' and 'New' towns, lounging on the beach and in the bay, and wandering the narrow, colorful streets lined with pizza, wine, and non-tacky souvenir shops. This sprawling town was bustling with energy, and we would later discover that it is the largest of the five towns. Definitely the town to stay in if you typically try to avoid the quiet and quaint feel.
The Cinque Terre tourist information office helped us plot out our hiking route and equipped us with the 'Cinque Terre' pass to take to the trails (or use other modes of transportation between towns). Feeling like a couple of sherpas, we set out for the first leg of the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza with all of our belongings on our backs. A challenging hour and a half hike with many (literal) ups and downs, but the view of the coast along the way was the greatest distraction one could ask for. Once Vernazza's rounded bay came into view, it felt like we had been traveling up a rainbow and were approaching on the pot of gold! Arriving in Vernazza felt similar to that of Monterosso, but more of an intimate feel where everyone feels like extended family. Anxiously waiting to cool off, we dipped into the chilly Mediterranean and took the rest of the day to lounge by the water, drinks in hand, and people watch.

As much as these towns scream "Relax! You're in paradise!!", we had some major ground to cover the following day. I was determined to not only hit but rather visit and explore all five towns, so we started the grueling hike (sans the big backpacks!) from Vernazza to Corniglia. Due to a rockslide on the coastal path, we had the lovely option to take the steeper route half way, then walk the road as it descended into Corniglia. Aside from catching a glimpse of a wild boar, this hike was relatively uneventful as we were surrounded by brush and unable to see the coast. The arrival into Corniglia from the road was a bit anti-climactic but this town perched high on a cliff was charming as can be. Definitely the least energetic town of the five, but the touristy feel was almost non-existent and I appreciated that. A nice little panini lunch in the shade, and we were ready for the next leg!

Unfortunately, more rockslides between Corniglia and Manarola left us no other option but to take the train. Admittingly tired and sun-soaked, we willingly took the 3 minute train ride to Manarola, but luckily the path from the train station provided the exact view you can scroll to the top of this page and find! I FOUND IT! The town, the VIEW, I have been daydreaming about for years but never able to put a familiar name to it, was right in front of me. What a feeling! Manarola was, fittingly, one of my favorites. A delicious mix between the busy-ness of Monterosso, and the small village feel of Vernazza, squished into one beautiful setting! A decent sized bay but with large rocks, quarry-like, instead of a sand beach. Picturesque to say the least.

Exhausted, yes. Exhilerated, YES! One town left, and the final 'hike' was conveniently the easiest stretch of them all. Literally a paved path from Manrola to Riomaggiore, and by far the most populated paths we had come across yet. Riomaggiore held all of the aesthetic characteristics of the other 4 towns, yet the feeling of uniqueness was missing for me. Unable to pinpoint what it was, I chalked it up to a full day of amazing sights and adorable communities to the point where maybe it was all running together? A beautiful and bustling town that seemed to give off more of a touristy feel than the others. Regardless, this was the 5th and final stop in (my) quest to set foot in each gem of the Cinque Terre. I wanted to do it all over again. Alas, my body didn't, and we were ready for some much deserved food and relaxation, so we hopped the train back to Vernazza.


As I mentioned earlier, although we were travelers on a budget, we certainly did not fail to enjoy some memorable meals...in creative ways. From take-out pizza on the beach, to a make-shift meal of crackers, cheese, anchovies and wine on a terrace overlooking the sea, and even a special pasta meal in the center of Vernazza, we were simply in heaven.







A trip abroad is often perfect in anticipation, stressful, exhilerating, and even relaxing in the midst of it all, and a life-changing experience as a memory. Although the details didn't play out as we had naively imagined, it was a true adventure, and most definitely the trip of a lifetime. Although this was a trip I had been dreaming about for years, and prepared to view it as a 'once in a lifetime' trip, I do foresee a return trip in the future...

THIS is what I LOVE about traveling. The way it changes us, ever-so-slightly.












































Monday, May 16, 2011

'The District'

I don't like tourist attractions. I have an undying love for traveling and exploring the world, but my idea of learning about different cultures, and what makes each country or city unique, is not by exploring the already most sought out sites and scenes. I want to know where the locals are, what they do and where they go on their days off. I want to be the most incognito tourist...except when I'm taking pictures of course. Why this soap box on covering unchartered territory and not succumbing to some of the most popular and well-known attractions in the world?? Because I folded. An opportunity came up for a last minute weekend trip to the nation's capital, and it would have been uncharacteristic of me to pass it up. So! Off to the city that is practically made up of tourist attractions...only missing a large camera hanging around my neck, a fanny pack at my waist, and a t-shirt doting the stars and stripes.

Washington D.C. is a nice little city. I say 'little' because it only covers 68.3 square miles, but sparse it is not. In fact, during the workweek 'The District' bulges to a population of over 1 million due to all of the federal workerbees having to commute in from surrounding areas. On the weekends, this number is more than cut in half, and from what I experienced, it's mainly made up of tourists! Monument-seeking gawkers shuffle in herds anywhere within a mile radius of the famed attractions. Not exactly my scene. That being said, however, the neighborhoods that surround this historical and politically charged area are all very charming. I can see why D.C. is named one of the Top 10 cities for young professionals to live in. Spot on!



As stated earlier, I was hardly chomping at the bit to cover every inch of every museum, or take in the history and beauty of, say, the Lincoln Memorial. Lucky for me, it was raining cats and dogs the day we arrived so there was no option other than to explore some artifacts indoors. Aside from feeling like I was in the middle of 50 school field trips, and sharing the personal space I would usually only share at a concert, the Smithsonian was a fascinating place. It could take a good three days to cover the whole thing, but being that I have the attention span of a gnat, I located the 4-5 prized possessions I wanted to see and called it a day. My favorite?? Why Julia Childs kitchen of course! The Holocaust museum is another must-see; even though we've all read about it, seen movies about it, and even visited concentration camps, the personal stories that are re-told with such vivid detail provide a very moving experience.

As far as the other major monuments and memorials go, they're almost all one in the same to me. In all honesty, the only scene I was truly looking forward to capturing was the view of the reflection pool and the Washington Monument from the Lincoln Memorial.
Vast dirtland and a handful of bulldozers, scattered about was all I got. As disappointment set in, my friend and I took some time to lounge on the grass surrounding the ever-so-erect Washington Monument, and people watch. Such an underrated activity, it's a shame. Before completely losing ourselves into the melting pot of cultures lingering around the monument, we decided to surge ahead towards the highly spoken-of neighborhood of Georgetown.


Georgetown, to me, felt like a lovely mix between England and Boston. The main drag, M Street, is lined with both locally owned as well as chain businesses, while the outlying neighborhood streets give off a very cozy, charming, colonial feel.
Normally I don't find chain stores or restaurants all that quaint, charming, or bursting with character, but Georgetown must have some kind of ordinance that each and every storefront must be disguised as the most adorable, one-of-a-kind business. Mission accomplished, I fell in love! Even the Anthropologie fooled me into thinking I was walking into a little blue farmhouse! Blocks and blocks of cafes, shops, bakeries, and little pubs, I wanted to eat everywhere! Alas, my appetite needed to be saved for a very special treat that was, in all honesty, a top priority on this trip to the nation's capital.

In search of a very popular cupcake joint, Georgetown Cupcake, my friend and I re-traced our steps several times, certain that we had missed it. One more block up, low and behold, we didn't need to find a small sign or even storefront. The line stretching the entire block assured us that we had found the mothership. A 2 hour wait....for cupcakes?? Again, having the attention span of a gnat, I couldn't imagine standing in line, for anything for 2 hours. That is how much I love cupcakes. It practically took the full 2 hours to read over the entire menu of cupcakes that they graciously hand out to the patient treat-seekers. Funny thing is, once we finally set foot into cupcake heaven, it was like the smells and the visual stimulation took over and all pre-planning on what to order was out the door.
It didn't matter. I am confident that every single cupcake in that little sugar shop would have sent me to the moon and back. Unfortunately, I had no reason to buy more than a couple of the little treasures, so I went with the basics and enjoyed every last sugar crystal. It was like biting into a fluffy, sugary cloud.

Recovering from a sugar hangover the next morning, the day of our departure, we had little time to meander around the Dupont Circle area and find some breakfast to balance out our glutenous choices from the day before. Could it have been fate that we stumbled upon a bustling farmers market that stretched for blocks around Dupont Circle?! Samples of fruits, vegetables, jams, honey, and breads left us satisfied but it sure was disappointing having to walk away from a farmers market empty-handed. Now we know where to start next time....hangin with the locals on their day off.

Sunday, April 17, 2011

La La Land...

There are few guarantees in life. Mustard will always stain, it will always rain the day after you wash your car, and Minnesota winters will NEVER be too short, or too mild. The last guarantee I can definitely concur with. It's simply expected of Minnesotans to empty their last 12 months of savings to make sure they'll get that imperative tropical escape sometime between mid-January and mid-April. I'll be the first to admit, I usually go down faster than anyone I know. Once the Christmas cheer has finally dwindled away, and there aren't any sparkling lights or garland to accompany the snow resting on the window panes, I'm the first to yell 'Uncle' and buy the next flight out of this frozen tundra we sheepishly call home.

I made it to the end of January before escaping to L.A. It's probably my 10th time visiting the City of Angels, and really I could've just laid in the sun, on the sidewalk outside of LAX and been content, but I decided to be a bit more ambitious and cover some of my favorite spots.

Top of my list was naturally the first stop: Runyon Canyon! This somewhat hidden gem, tucked in the Hollywood Hills, behind Sunset Blvd in West Hollywood, is the perfect spot to capture some breathtaking snapshots of the L.A. area, take your furry friend for a challenging walk, and really truly sweat like you mean it! Water bottle and camera in hand, get as intense of a workout as you can handle...and unwind by practicing your downward facing dog in a yoga class on the grass at the bottom. After dominating Runyon Canyon, the last thing I wanted to do was crawl back into the parking lot that was the 405, so happy hour at The Den on Sunset Blvd with some old friends was the perfect opportunity to wait out rush hour. A small, easy to miss chalet-like bar with a cozy patio and fresh chocolate chip cookies on the menu. Fate? I think so.

Moving out of the crazy, star-studded glamour of West Hollywood and inching West towards Beverly Hills, Brentwood, and Santa Monica, it's fascinating to observe the gradual change in the scenery...and even the people. Personally, the further west I traveled, the more comfortable I felt. A quick drop in at Sprinkles for one of their famous gourmet cupcakes is about all I can personally stomach in the high brow, designer-labeled neighborhood of Beverly Hills. However, practice patience and head a bit further West and you will find yourself in the quite charming, (a little) less pretentious, neighborhood of Brentwood. Clean, quiet streets, cute shops and cafes, and still an abundance of fashionable restaurants and lounges for those who prefer to see and be seen. A major plus? Ten minute drive down Santa Monica Blvd to the beach!

Brentwood also gained some major points in my book with a couple of spots that simply made me feel at home. The Liverati Cafe is the type of cafe/coffeeshop you would find on a side street in a quiet, charming town in Italy. This cafe is bustling in the morning...a perfect place to grab a cappucino and a scone or biscotti, and either have a chat with one of the regulars, or snag a spot in the sun to welcome the day. By my second morning there, I felt like a regular! Another MUST do/visit/eat is Susie Cakes cupcake shop. Although I'm partial to any charming bakery, especially ones that have yet to be 'discovered', there is no bias when I say these cupcakes are absolutely unbelievable. Yes, they literally melt in your mouth; Yes you are thrown into a sugar coma for a good 15-20 minutes; and YES Susie Cakes puts Sprinkles cupcakes to shame. Well done, Susie Cakes, well done!



Of course, a trip to L.A. is never complete without some quality beach time. Santa Monica offers pretty much every piece that a 'fantasy day package' could offer. Wander the streets of the bustling 3rd st promenade, do some shopping and grab a bite to eat. Take a stroll along the beach as the waves crash and roll up to tickle your feet, or get a game of beach volleyball going. Enough activity for the day? Dish out 5 big ones and grab a spot on the Pacific Wheel on the Santa Monica Pier, and watch the sunset over the ocean. Best 5 dollars you'll spend in a long time, I promise! Top your Santa Monica day-0-fun with some ice cream as you meander back to reality. Cheesy?? Yes! Unforgettable day to end your California escape from frigid, gloomy Minnesota?? You betcha! ;)



Friday, January 21, 2011

C H I C A G O

How does one begin to write about the greatest city on the face of the earth?! Clearly this upcoming post has proven to be a daunting task for me (my extended absence from blogging is evidence alone), and I can only blame this writer's block on the amazingness that is.....Chicago. Well, that and it's not only a second home to me, it's a previous home of mine which places it in unchartered territory between cities I've visted that deserve recognition and cities I've lived in which don't technically make the cut. Rest assured and breathe that sigh of relief! I've come to my senses and decided that The Windy City not only deserves recognition, it deserves the spotlight!!

Shall we??

Except for the small town, country-road-loving people, who get enough stimulation from driving to the local general store, I am pretty confident that the reflection of the sparkling skyline off of Lake Michigan, the squeaky 'L' train weaving through the neighborhoods, or the tree-lined streets of Lincoln Park filled with boutiques and old walk-ups, will tickle the fancy of anyone! I see Chicago as being the perfect balance between the massive metropolis of New York City, and the charming urban scene that is Minneapolis/St Paul. The city is literally laid out on a grid, making navigation a breeze; sprawling Lake Michigan lines the city and offers up highlights along the shore including the Navy Pier, North Ave beach, and Belmont Harbor; the bustling streets of downtown are only a 5 minute train ride to the more intimate and quaint neighborhoods, each portraying different personalities and lifestyles. How can all of this glory be accessible within roughly 10 square miles?!




So, as I claimed above, this city doesn't hold a single indentity. Each neighborhood is smattered with character that gives it a personality...a uniqueness. Again, like a smaller, more clean version of the Big Apple. Start the tour bus!

The typical Chicago tourist rarely ventures outside of the heart of the city. Lucky for them, downtown Chicago is bulging with gems...literally something for everyone. Countless museums within a 3 mile radius, endless shopping down the infamous Michigan Avenue, trains meandering between the skyscrapers, Navy Pier jutting out into Lake Michigan offering up breathtaking views from the top of the ferris wheel...and for those who get claustrophobic being surrounded by high-rises and concrete, the shores of Lake Michigan and Millenium Park provide the calming effect you're looking for! After a long day of shopping, cruising the harbor, or playing in the park? Fill your belly with the authentic Chicago deep-dish pizza of your choice...might I suggest
Giordano's or Gino's East? Cap off the night with a tasty cocktail and a final view of the city on the 95th floor of the Hancock at the Signature Room as you reminisce over the events of the day...


Lincoln Park

Old stone walk ups, wide tree-lined streets, boutiques, cafes, and small upscale restaurants every which way you turn, makes for an adorable bubble in a large city. It's no mystery that the most well-known neighborhood in Chicago is the most expensive to live in. This doesn't mean that some inexpensive dabbling shouldn't be on the agenda! From Saturday morning farmers markets in Lincoln Park and sprawling North Ave beach nearby, to the Lincoln Park Zoo & balmy Conservatory, there's no need to empty your piggy bank to have fun. However, if eating your way through a new city is more your taste (as it is mine), Lincoln Park has the variety of cuisines and dining styles that will fit the likes of anyone!

Looking for a cozy and romantic escape from the fierce wind? Head to
Gejas for some heart-warming fondue over a dimly lit candle. Feeling adventurous enough to step outside the traditional Chicago deep-dish pizza?! Be selfish and get your own individual 'pizza bowl' at Chicago Pizza and Oven Grinder....you just may re-think that trip to Giordano's or Gino's the next time you visit! Finally, the queen of all bees, the mother of all ships, the taker of all cakes. Sweet Mandy B's. Unless you are a cold-hearted, lifeless, sweet-hater, you will simply fall in love with this bakery. The aroma of cookies, cupcakes, and buttercream frosting starts to tickle your nose before you even enter the sugarland. The constant line wrapping along the bakery cases is evidence enough, that not only is this bakery charming, but they have perfected the cupcake. Descriptive adjectives would sell these treats short....JUST GO THERE!



Wicker Park/Bucktown

Switching gears to a neighborhood that resembles Uptown in Minneapolis or Greenwhich Village in NYC, Wicker Park/Bucktown neighborhood has a bit more of an edge, compared to Lincoln Park. Sidewalks are covered with twenty-something hipsters instead of high-end strollers with matching diaper bags below, and the plethora of bars ranging from hole-in-the-wall to no-cell phones-allowed affirms the heterogeneous feel that this neighborhood gives out. While it may give off a feeling of a rather unkempt part of town, this neighborhood has some notable (foodie)highlights. Funky brunch spots seem to be a trend in the Chicago area and the Wicker Park/Bucktown area enables this craze to hold strong. Save your appetite and make some reservations to start your morning off with a stack of Lemon Ricotta Pancakes at the
Bongo Room,
a Chicago favorite. Run around the neighborhood, do some window shopping and work up your appetite again before settling into a booth with a locally brewed beer and a tasty thin-crust pizza at Piece pizzeria and brewery. No fluff, no flare, just damn good pizza! Now, if raw fish and miso are more your style, grab a bottle of wine or 6-pack of beer and scoot down Damen to Coast, and be prepared for the sushi to melt in your mouth like butta! Finally, for a hoity toity drink conjured up by a professional mixolegist, and a setting that makes you feel like you're on the set of Alice in Wonderland, end your night at the Violet Hour. The experience alone will leave you satisfied!

Roscoe Village/Lakeview/Wrigleyville

As these neighborhoods lack a clear dividing line between one another, and don't necessarily hold distinct personalities as Wicker Park and Lincoln Park seem to do, it makes sense to clump them together as a unified neighborhood that makes up a large chunk of the northern part of the city. College students and young professionals flock to Wrigleyville and Lakeview for the nightlife and tiny apartments conveniently smattered within the bar scene, while Roscoe Village is a more spacious, quaint little area that attracts younger families with cafes, coffeeshops, and stroller-friendly sidewalks. Of course it goes without saying that each of these little pockets hold gems that are note-worthy. Frasca pizzeria in Roscoe Village is an under-appreciated pizzeria and wine bar with specialty pizza and pasta that will make you feel like you're having lunch in Naples, Italy. Pair these authentic offerings with daily deals to boot, and you'll have yourself a new favorite neighborhood hangout!

Heading north with a pair of Cubs tickets in your hand, preparing to spend the afternoon sitting in the sun at the infamous Wrigley Field?? Bypass the packed bars full of pre-game boozers, and substitute the liquid calories for some sweet, sweet bliss at Ann Sathers on Belmont in Lakeview. No need to sit down and wait for a hearty breakfast to fill you up with energy to last through 9 innings, just order a fresh-out-of-the-oven cinnamon roll that will literally melt in your hand if you don't inhale it pronto. The shear amount of butter and sugar that you consume will spike your blood sugar just enough to get to the big game in time for the opening pitch. Whether or not you'll fall into a deep sugar coma once settled into the bleachers is purely up to your dedication to the world of outdoor baseball. GO CUBS GO!