THE BIG EASY!

Full disclosure. I have never had any interest in visiting the South. Not even a tiny bit, just to see what their accents really sounded like. Terrible, I know. Why would someone who longs to cover the globe seeking out new cultural experiences and opportunities outside of their comfort bubble, neglect an entire portion of the U.S. that is known for their distinct culture, history, musical style and cuisine?? I have no excuse.

No disrespect to all of the fine people that brave through those ungodly humid summers, shell out annual hurricane insurance, and accept that life just moves a little slower down there. I am well aware that there is some unparalelled beauty and culture that make up the 11 states of the South. Maybe it's my aversion to the fried cuisine, or knowing that I am the last person that should be hanging out in the Bible Belt, or maybe I just didn't know enough about this section of the country to get out and explore it. Fortunately for me, a dear friend moved to Baton Rouge for school and the seal was forced to be broken.

Louisiana's capital city is certainly not hustling and bustling. With a sprawling lay out pushing 79 square miles and a population of around 230,000, Baton Rouge's country look matches the 'country numbers'. (For perspective, Minneapolis' 58 square miles holds 388,000). Smattered with Chick-fil-A's, Raising Cane's, and a lot of tonka trucks, there's nothing wildly different than any other suburb in my book. Correction, there is Louisiana State University's campus which is said to be a nice little haven.....maybe we'll consider Baton Rouge to be a nice little college town? Moving on...

New Orleans, however, you've got character. You've got depth and resilience. You've got a vibrant nightlife and music scene. You've got grub that'll make your heart stop. Colorful houses and buildings with big window shutters and french doors. Balconys on every building. Hurricanes and hand grenades being consumed at 10am on any given day. To me, it's a mix between Duval Street in Key West, and the debauchery of the Vegas Strip. Even our drive into New Orleans, crossing Lake Pontchartrain, felt like we were driving through the Florida Keys.

There's definitely a laid back feel swirling through the streets of NOLA, and I appreciate that. As one who even has a hard time walking slowly on the beach, I'll be the first to say we (collectively) need to slow it down. Eat a beignet. Drink a hurricane every now and again. (maybe once a year will suffice, but it's a nice thought) Maybe the laid back living makes people more pleasant because we had some experiences that rivaled our own 'Minnesota Nice'. Take notes, y'all.

The infamous Bourbon Street definitely lived up to my expectations. 365 days a year this rue is hoppin'; you don't need to visit during Mardi Gras to walk away with some beads and a 48 hour hangover. Although the 13 block stretch is literally made up of bars, restaurants, and strip clubs, I didn't find it nearly as raunchy as the Vegas Strip, littered with cards promoting adult entertainment options. Drinks at The Old Absinthe House are a must, just to check out the walls plastered with business cards. (Is that the modern way of etching your initials in your favorite tree?) Throw in a couple of sugary hurricanes at Pat O'Briens and you'll fall right in step with the herd, inching and stumbling down the street. Personally, my favorite spot was the balcony. Bourbon Street people watching at its finest, folks. They don't make this stuff up.

 

If Bourbon Street isn't your scene, and you prefer to keep it classy, check out the Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street. An old, elegantly decorated bar that isn't exactly a natural transition from the joints on Bourbon Street (experienced first hand). You can try to snag seats at the actual Carousel Bar that slowly rotates, but after a couple of drinks, a spinning bar is one of the last places one would find me sitting. No interest in day drinking? Meander towards Jackson Square and take a gander at the sidewalk art or sit on the steps and watch the street performers of the moment. While you're there, you may as well get in line at Cafe du Monde for a bag of some fluffy beignets and chickory coffee. Spend some quality time on Canal Street, lined with shopping, dining, and entertainment hotspots. It's a perfect starting point to get your bearings, then let the southern wind take you further into the Big Easy abyss.

Carousel Bar

Might I suggest you let the wind blow you Northwest of the city for a day trip along the River Road? A pretty, winding, albeit slower drive, this route is dotted with magnificent plantations that bring you back to the pre-Civil War era. We checked out Oak Alley Plantation, drawn in by the breathtaking grounds (i.e. the actual alley of oaks). While the guided tour through the Antebellum mansion provided some interesting history, the entrance fee of $20 seemed a bit high just to check out four rooms in the house and wander through majestic oaks. Regardless, a pretty cool experience to set foot on such historical grounds and take a mini trip back in time.

Oak Alley Plantation

Of course no trip is complete without dipping into some culinary adventures, and New Orleans provides plenty of opportunities to expand that edible comfort zone. As one who doesn't do much dabbling in the world of fried foods, I was prepared to take a leap from my 'safe foods' and gobble up some southern cookin'. How 'bout starting with some fried alligator from Cochon in New Orleans warehouse district? Don't mind if I do...just give me five minutes to chew it. It's next to impossible to find a sandwich that isn't filled with fried meat or fish, but there actually is a notable difference between your $8 crabcake poboy from the bar, and your fancy $12 fried oyster poboy from Cochon. So, whatever that's worth. Beignets from Cafe du Monde were the highlight for me, but really, a bag full of powdered sugar and only three beignets?? Since when does the South worry about portion control? I could've inhaled six more of those deep fried clouds but I suppose that's just another reason for a return trip someday. Finishing off a day and night of imbibing, with some creamy grits from Surrey's Uptown for breakfast is a perfect stomach settler, ideally followed by an early afternoon nap. Heck, any of this rich cuisine will make you want to curl up and just let the grease slowly soak in. Maybe that's the big secret to slowing down. Maybe we all just need a little grease.


Fried Alligator
 

Beignets

Shrimp n Grits

We all know that any trip that involves visiting good friends is going to be a good time. We could've visited them in Cedar Rapids, Iowa and still had a blast. But then we would've missed out on a section of the U.S. that should never be ignored. I will no longer assume that any part of the country, or world for that matter, is 'not for me'. Who knows, maybe we'll get lucky and their next move will be to Wichita, Kansas.

Sin City

Gluttony, derived from the Latin 'gluttire' meaning to gulp down or swallow, means over-indulgence and over-consumption of food, drink, or wealth items to the point of extravagence or waste

 

I don't live in a cave, nor was I born yesterday, so I had a pretty good idea of what Las Vegas would be like. I knew there would be lights. Casinos were a given. Entertainment, nightlife, and of course those deep, dark secrets. What I may not have been fully prepared for, however, was the sheer volume of all of those things.

Gluttony seemed to be the only descripter that came to mind as I meandered through droves of tourists, many of which carried 2 ft long schooners of adult beverages (you know, so they didn't run out while walking from one casino to the next). Or as I covered portions of the 4.2 mile strip that is decorated with roughly 30 massive hotels and casinos -- 15 of which hold ranking in the 25 largest hotels in the world. How about the endless buffets and bottomless drinks served anywhere and everywhere you turn? Entertainment and shows keep you going 24 hours a day. Best of all, every opportunity to win big (but most likely lose your life savings), staring at you in the face, screaming 'Risk it all, risk it all!!'

The Bellagio

Don't get me wrong, this isn't a jab at Sin City, no. As one who observes and discusses human behaviors and choices by day, I am simply putting a word and description to sum up my observations. This also didn't make me immune to the powers of Vegas. At the end of my long weekend, after letting myself dabble in some sports betting a bit more than planned, I found myself fighting back the urge to cash out my final winnings and circle right back in line to make another bet in the sports book. More. MORE. I WANT MORE!

Sports book at The Wynn

It may be hard to believe that visitors do anything other than gamble while they're in Vegas, with the average gaming revenue on the strip alone hitting $6.2 billion per year, but there are other attractions to The Entertainment Capital of the World. Golf lovers are attracted to some of the finest courses in the world, while others take advantage of luxury spas and soak in some quality R&R. I would imagine that if a person were to divert the average gambling allowance of $485 to a spa experience, they would leave Vegas with a much clearer conscience.

Aside from my own unexpected attraction to sports betting, none of the over-the-top hype reeled me in. Instead, it was the feeling of being in a city-wide wax museum that made me think I was in an adult Disney World. One could (and we did) get lost wandering through the Venetian after an al fresco dinner at Mario Batali's OTTO Pizzeria in St. Marc's square. A gondola ride would've completed the fantasy that we were 5,000 miles away from home but we settled for gelato. How about a little romance in the City of Lights? Take a quick 10 minute walk up the strip and enjoy a crepe at the bottom of The Eiffel Tower. Want to visit the Big Apple? Walk over the Brooklyn Bridge or snap a picture with Lady Liberty. Around the world in 4.2 miles!

Another avenue of fabulous and less risky entertainment in Vegas are the phenomenal shows. Take your pick anywhere from Donny & Marie or David Copperfield, to a plethora of comedy shows or Cirque du Soleil acts. As a virgin to the Cirque du Soleil world, I was giddy with excitment when I heard we had tickets to The Beatles LOVE Cirque du Soleil show at The Mirage. Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined such a visually stimulating, interactive, mind-blowing show. I actually found myself back in that Vegas trance thinking: More! More! I want more! Maybe these shows aren't as 'safe' as I thought. Unless you visit Vegas on a regular basis, I would recommend checking out a show that stays in Vegas. There is some extraordinary talent out there.

Eating happens to be another popular activity in Vegas. Yes, it's popular everywhere, but foodies are often drawn to this desert city because of the big name chefs that brilliantly set up shop up and down the strip. You've got Bobby Flay, Gordon Ramsey, Mario Batali, Emeril Lagasse, Wolfgang Puck, Tom Colicchio, Joel Robuchon, and the list goes on. Can we get some female competition out there, people?? What chef wouldn't want to open up 5 different versions of the same restaurant in the city where people go just to indulge? My husband and I tested out the previously mentioned OTTO in the Venetian with high hopes of re-living our Italian pizza eating adventures. While the setting whisked us away to a bustling Italian square, I can't say the pizza brought me back. But hey, feeling like we were hanging out in Italy for 2 hours was certainly worth the 10 minute walk.

Las Vegas is simply one of a kind. I cannot think of another city that could even come close to resembling this electrifying hub. For me, though, a huge piece missing in this city of lights, money, and debachery is the active escape. It's out there, just not within a stone's throw from the strip. So if or when I visit this stimulating desert oasis again, I will make sure to stray from the chaos and go for a hike among the red rocks, so that I can balance out any glutonous decisions I made and go home with a little less guilt.

iViva Espana!

Leave it to me to suggest we backpack around Spain for our honeymoon. Who needs tropical breezes, cabana boys, poolside drinks and pure relaxation after months of wedding planning, when you can traipse across a foreign country carrying your own weight of dirty clothes on your back?! Not us, apparently. Even though, on a train somewhere between Marbella and Cordoba, we confessed that a trip to Hawaii probably would've given us the rejuvenation we needed, we agreed that nothing kicks off a new level of partnership and 'wedded bliss' more than getting lost in the winding streets of Seville together or breaking down and getting pad thai take out just to forego the hassle of figuring out menus for a night. Alas. After 4 plane rides, 3 train rides, 3 bus trips, and countless metro adventures, we arrived back in the states with amazing memories, a few souvenirs, quite a few valuable learnings, and a much needed vacation from our vacation. Totally worth it all.

The first thing we noticed, almost immediately upon our arrival into Madrid, was that traveling within Spain is very different than traveling in Italy. The Spaniards actually have schedules for their various modes of transporation and they are relatively reliable! Maybe that's why the train tickets cost an arm and a leg. Regardless. Un punto para Espana! This eases some anxiety and ponderings on whether or not we'd actually make it to the cities we planned to visit. Bonus points: even 2nd class train ticket holders get a designated seat! No more 4 hour 'standing room only' train rides for this classy couple.

Another valuable take-away is that the first meal in a foreign country is often the most frustrating and unenjoyable meal of the entire trip. When else are you supposed to discover that water only comes in bottles (often more expensive than wine), or that you will most certainly be charged for the bread basket they put on your table (whether you eat it or not). How about finding out that the tip/service charge IS included in the bill after you've left a few extra euro, thinking the service was less than average but you had to leave something. Oh and the 4x4 squares of toilet paper scrunched into a silver dispenser, sitting on your tiny table? Napkins. Good luck indulging in greasy tapas without going through at least half the stack. Remember, these aren't complaints, I'm not whining about having to bounce around from bodega to bodega, experiencing a foreign country through its rich cuisine. They're merely musings to note, and be tucked away as FYI's for future meals abroad!

An obvious necessary adjustment when visiting Spain (at least if you want to experience Spanish culture at all) is the lifestyle. You'll be hard pressed to find locals racing out the door, stopping at the nearest cafe for their morning coffee, and getting into work before 8 or even 9am. Stabucks opening at 6am to make sure nobody starts their day without the necessary caffeine jolt? Not here. Late to rise and even later to rest is the M-O in Spain. They also take their siestas very seriously. While wandering through the shopping district in Seville, bummed to find 95% of the stores closed for the daily siesta we keep blocking out, we are excited to find one lonely delicatessen open and thought "wow, they must be hard workers!" After 7 minutes of debating which type of olives to buy, they abruptly turned the lights off on us. Just a friendly way of saying "Get the hell out of here, we need to go take a nap and have a drink before coming back to work!" Duly noted.

Madrid, which we bookend-ed our trip with, really felt a lot like Rome but without as many historical landmarks. A big, bustling city, it felt a little stale without the Spanish charm I was hoping for. Don't get me wrong, there is plenty to see and do in this Spanish mecca of 3.3 million people. Fortunately, we took the leap and tried another 'airbnb' accommodation which turned out to be an extremely pleasant and valuable cultural experience. Although we literally slept in a crawl space in the attic, our host and her adorable daughter fed us with local knowledge, tips, and the traditional Spanish breakfast of cafe con leche y tostada con marmalada.

Aside from scoping out the main hotspots of Madrid: a gory bullfight, people watching in the Plaza Mayor, the Royal Palace, the Prado museum, and a tour of Santiago Bernabeau Stadium (Real Madrid's home turf), we successfully sprinkled our 3 days in the capital with some tasty traditional tapas. After one very mediocre meal (said 1st meal upon arrival), we quickly learned that the street known as Cava Baja in La Latina neighborhood and the free-standing Mercado de San Miguel are the spots to go to mingle with the locals, indulge in (affordable!) tapas, and absorb the culture.

 

While I was content diving into a cheese plate meant for 5, Shawn embraced Spain through its cured meats and fresh fish tapas (jamon iberico, sardines, anchovies, squid, sea urchin and octopus), and we were in tapas heaven. Even the 'Huevos Rotos' (pile of french fries topped with over-easy eggs, sprinkled with serrano ham) turned out to be a crowd pleaser. As if these tapas weren't heavy enough, the classic treat of chocolate and churros is enough to immobilize you and send you into a sweet deep sleep. Despite the lack of Spanish charm and enough sight-seeing to keep one with a slight case of A.D.D. (moi) interested, our palates were satisfied and we were eager for more!

 

 

Thinking that a few days in the Costa del Sol would be all the rejuvenation we'd need, we headed South to Malaga, regardless of not knowing a thing about it and never hearing a recommendation or raving review. A tourist destination full of modern shops, enchanting narrow winding streets, and a 'walking mall' that lined the coast, Malaga feels like a combination of Florida and the island of Palma de Mallorca. Warm(er) weather, bronze skin, yachts filling the harbor, and an overall laid back feel. Since the most beautiful and well known Costa del Sol beaches lie west of Malaga, we didn't spend much time lounging on the beach. The lack of major attractions (aside from the Cathedral and Alcazaba) and disappointingly lack of notable eats, left us a bit underwhelmed and hungry for something to explore (see?! Hawaii would've been a bad choice)! Low and behold, a self-guided day trip to the UK territory of Gibraltar filled that void (and gave us half a day break from stammering Spanish words that don't exist).

 

A massive rock decorating Spain's southern tip and pointing to Northern Africa is basically what Gibraltar is made up of. Similar to the likes of, say, Mackinac Island in Michigan, Gibraltar appears to be a miniature town made for (and depending on) tourism. British pubs, duty free shops, wild monkeys running around, and a cable car that provides a view from the top of the rock into Morocco, are the main attractions and can really only fill half a day. Do make sure, however, to leave ample time for arriving and departing this British oasis. A walk across the airport runway and a line to go through customs (don't forget your passport!) may set you back a good half hour so plan accordingly.

Although Malaga was a nice little retreat, we were eager to dive back into some more authentic Spanish culture and cuisine, and Seville served it all on a beautiful ceramic platter. With bottomless Sangria pitchers, a labyrinth that could keep you wandering for days, and stunning ceramics speckling the city, falling in love with Seville was effortless. Maybe because the size of Seville seemed more manageable than that of Madrid, or because some streets were so quaint and narrow that you had to plaster yourself against the wall to allow the occasional car to drive by; whatever it was about the city that pulled at our heart strings, we wanted to soak it all in, just short of applying for a Visa and cancelling our flight home.

While I'd rather sit in a busy plaza and people watch for days on end than take in historical landmarks mentioned in the latest Fodor's Travel Book, I politely conformed to the 'Tourist Code of Conduct' and took in some recommended sites. Humbled and in awe, I cannot describe nor emphasize enough, the beauty and sheer greatness of the Plaza de Espana. No questions allowed. Go see it. In the same realm, the Cathedral in Seville is an architectural phenomenon and absolutely a must-see in my book. Meander across the Rio Guadalquivir into the neighborhood of Triana where the number of ceramics workshops quite possibly out numbers the population of Triana itself, and load up on classic Spanish plates, tiles, mugs and platters to take home.

 

Seville's cuisine also ranked high on our foodie scale. There seemed to be a wider variety of meatless tapas offered, from marinated peppers, spinach and chickpeas, to Spanish tortillas and patatas bravas. Oh and the seafood paella? We would have swam in it if we could have. Delicioso! A generous daily nightcap of Sangria or vino was a welcomed sleeping agent as our bodies still couldn't figure out the difference between night and day. Naturally, as we were really getting into the Spanish groove, it was time to take that last sip of Sangria and say 'hasta luego, Espana'.

As we set out on our last trek to the airport at 6:45am, still groggy and unprepared for the 17 hour travel day ahead, the streets were sprinkled with stumbling yet giddy locals just starting to make their way home after the usual Friday night out. We may not have had the energy to take on the Spanish lifestyle in full force, but we gave it a solid shot and will be that much more prepared when we visit again. Sure we could've laid under a straw hut while getting massages on the beach in Hawaii, but we can do that when we're retired and have really earned the relaxation credits. For now, what a way to kick off a lifetime of adventures together, take the bull by the horns, and dive in!

The City by the Bay

San Francisco. What is your first thought when you hear those two words? Sourdough bread? Trollies that roll up and down the countless hills of the city? The infamous Full House? The Golden Gate Bridge?! All, very valid images related to The City by the Bay. Mine, you ask? Why it's one of Jefferson Starship's hits, 'We Built This City' , of course! No explanation as to how or when this catchy tune got permanately paired with my image of San Francisco, but the tiny part of the lyrics that mention looking out onto the Golden Gate Bridge on a sunny Saturday, has nestled in and made a home in my brain forever. And I love it. Years after first hearing this ditty, I finally made it to 'Frisco' to experience the lyrics myself.

My first trip to San Francisco quickly brought me to the realization that just visiting this amazing city once, would NOT give it the final 'check' on the traveling bucketlist, opening up opportunities for other cities on the list to enjoy my future presence. Oh no. The city will be lucky to host me many times over again. There is simply too much to see and do in one, even two trips...and this isn't a city where you drive around and cram in as much sight-seeing as possible. Every point of interest is an experience in and of itself! From hiking and biking to wine tasting and culinary exploration, there's so much more to The City by the Bay than the infamous Piers and Fisherman's Wharf. Hop on a trolley and wander with me...


While the heart of the city has a hopping Union Square and bustling downtown, wandering along the water and bopping from Pier to Pier is what separates San Francisco from your typical urban jungle. Emerging from the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit)at the Embarcadero center just steps from the water, we were delighted to find a whole slew of stands; locals selling handmade jewelry and screen-printed shirts, to framed photos and touristy trinkets. Across the street sits the Ferry Building, buzzing with local foodies and tourists alike. This place reminds me of Quincy Market in Boston. One long corridor lined with gourmet food shops that could keep a foodie satisfied for days. But if you don't have days to spend in there, make sure to walk out with one thing: a 'meat cone' from Boccalone. I cannot personally vouch for it, but the giddyness that immediately followed Shawn's experience with it, definitely spoke for itself.

Wandering along the Piers with skyskrapers to your left and water to your right, there are plenty of distractions as you make your way to the bustling Fisherman's Wharf.
With roughly 1 million visitors each month, you can imagine this place is hoppin from sunrise to sunset. With a plethora of eating establishments, there are plenty of food choices in this area, but if you want a true San Franciscan experience, walk up to one of the many crab stands and buy a big ol' Dungeness crab! Watch them steam it, crack it, break it apart, and throw it in a basket with some lemons and cocktail sauce. Jackpot!

Moving along, with a full belly of crab, Ghiradelli Square is a perfect spot to stop, grab a coffee (or some free Ghiradelli chocolate!) and a spot on a bench at the top of the hill and do some quality people watching. Another hot touristy spot filled with vendors and lines to hop on the trollies, Ghiradelli Square is buzzing all day and lit up at night. Not to mention a beautiful view of the bay from the top. One of my favorite places!

Finally, the main reason for visiting this gem of a city, the 'glue' that holds it all together (literally)...the Golden Gate Bridge. Even the walk TO the Golden Gate Bridge from the Bay is glorious. Do NOT leave this city until you have either walked or driven the 1.7 miles over the bridge, and preferably catch some breathtaking views from the Vista Point. Even on a typical foggy day, when the city appears non-existent, you will have to catch your breath.

The breathtaking views from the Golden Gate Bridge may seem like all you need to take away from this little piece of heaven, but just you wait. There's more. Take an afternoon(or full day) break from the city's haze er...fog, and head about 20 minutes outside of the city to Muir Woods and put on your hiking shoes! You'd think you're almost 200 miles inland, hiking in Yosemite, but really you're only miles from the city nestled within hundreds of massive Redwoods. Take the opportunity to breathe in the fresh air, and 'become one' with nature before re-entering the hustle and bustle of city life.

After your hike head Southeast about 10 miles for some relaxation and reflection in the adorably quaint beach town of Tiburon. Grab a casual bite to eat on the doc of Sams Anchor Cafe, as you watch people dock their sailboats and meander in for a drink at sunset. After re-fueling, take a stroll on the boardwalk along the water, and soak in the last bit of peace and quiet before heading back to the Bay. Do not leave before the sun sets. You'll understand why.
As I promised, an amazing city with ample opportunities is like the gift that keeps on giving. Just. Can't. Get. Enough. Head an hour outside of the city and you'll find yourself in the town that lives by and looks like its name: Pleasanton! Complete with a charming main street, lined with sidewalk restaurants and frozen yogurt shops, you couldn't picture a more fitting town to live up to that name. Could it also be a coincidence that my friend Stacie, her husband JJ,(literally the nicest people in the world, and amazing hosts) and their unbelievably adorable son Ozzie live there? I think not. One of the best parts of this town? The Saturday morning farmers market. All of the fruits, vegetables, and homemade baked goods you can possibly imagine. Tip: don't even bother eating breakfast before heading to this neighborhood feast. Apparently it's common practice to hand out generous samples, so make your rounds and fill up!

As if all of the above wasn't enough to keep you busy and entertained for days on end, what trip to Northern California is complete without some wine tasting and rolling vineyards?! Whether you have a few days, or even a few hours to spare, the short (and beautiful) drive into Wine Country is so very worth it. The myraid of wineries can almost be overwhelming, and tastings can range from $5 with no reservations, to $50 with required reservations so do your research and map out a plan if you're on a budget or a schedule.

With such a variety of wineries to chose from, you are sure to find some that fit your 'level' of seriousness. From a 6-course dinner paired with different wines that will leave you feeling like a certified Sommelier, to a casual yet enchanting winery such as V.Sattui, that offers up a picturesque picnic area and a full deli to complete your modest yet memorable meal, pure contentment will inevitably set in. One of my favorite areas of Napa is Yountville. What feels like a small town in the middle of heaven, Yountville's main street is lined with both high-end and casual restaurants, gourmet food shops, charming boutiques, and of course a smattering of wineries. This is also the home of famed chef Thomas Keller's restaurant, French Laundry. With their tasting menu starting at a few hundred big ones, we decided to hold onto the dream, and fill up with more affordable nourishment: cookies from Bouchon Bakery. The line out the door says it all.

Clearly San Francisco has more to offer than I had ever imagined, and I cannot stop raving about it. I even came up with an 'excuse' to make almost annual trips there (aside from wonderful friends in Pleasanton), and started using this excuse for my most recent trip. Shawn and I signed up for the hilly San Francisco half marathon, and got Stacie in on the action too. What an incredible way to explore the city (not to mention distractions galor to take our minds off of the constant hills)! Lining up at 5am with the lights of the city and Bay Bridge as our backdrop was the greatest wake-up call we could've asked for. Running along the Pier, making our way to the Golden Gate Bridge as the sky slowly lightened, and the city started to stir, was the coolest feeling. I definitely see this 'excuse' being used again in the future.
As previous posts have revealed, my kind of trip is not worthy of a post unless food is included somewhere in the mix. While the meat cone was definitely a highlight for one of us, our dinner at Anchor & Hope on our last night in the city cannot go unmentioned. Let me rephrase that. Anchor & Hope deserves a damn Michelin Star as far as I am concerned. A tip from Shawn's friend brought us to this somewhat hidden spot practically in an alley just outside of the Financial District. An exposed warehouse feeling, made warm and intimate with low lights, candles, and unpretentious decor, this was definitely not a tourist hotspot, and we couldn't have been more pleased. Somehow making it back to our hotel in a hazy seafood coma, we escaped the 'last night in an amazing city and away from reality funk' and soaked in as much of the local scene as possible. Well damn done!


Maybe the half marathon is the perfect excuse to make San Francisco an annual trip. Afterall, I could probably dream up a different itinerary every year and never come up short in new spots to explore. Throw in a challenging yet rewarding race to satisfy my need for some activity, and I think I've got another 'lifer'. Now all I need is a travel fund that will magically refill itself...

Italian Adventures!

The trip of a lifetime. Let me rephrase that. The trip of my lifetime. What used to be a grand idea and fantasy, slowly materialized into the visual theme of this blog (see stunning visual at the top of the page), several itinerary options, and finally a real, bona fide adventure! Staying true to my travel and exploration preferences of making any trip as active as possible, my fantasy trip to Italy included full-on backpacking through the breathtaking Cinque Terre. Combine that with some ambitious sightseeing in Rome and Florence, a dash of cycling through Tuscany, and you've got the recipe for 10 days in H-E-A-V-E-N. I would, however, be lying if I failed to note a few 'travel hiccups' thrown into the mix...otherwise it wouldn't be an adventure, right?? Let me indulge you...

Rome

A loud, aggressive, dirty city that is smattered with so many historical landmarks, it's basically 496 square miles of sacred land. A cultural mecca, yet unlike a comparable urban melting pot such as New York City, tourists from around the world really have no choice but to live by the all-too-true motto 'When in Rome'. A burger and fries or a big, fat burrito American style, are nowhere to be found. Pizza, pasta, bruschetta, and panini shacks dot every corner like Starbucks in Manhattan.
Mineral water is the non-alcoholic beverage of choice (tourists need to triple check for 'no gas' water before drinking), bicyclists don't wear helmets (a shocking and horrifying discovery after observing the 'Italian way' of driving), and coffee drinks aren't pumped out and downed by the gallon as they are in the States. A lovely habit I would personally like to continue back home! Finally, the verbal maelstrom complete with thrashing hands, is a typical observation of any Italian conversation; even after 10 days, I was still tense everytime I caught the playful banter taking place.

These minor cultural differences are the reasons us tourists and travelers take the leap across the pond (or for some, the reasons to avoid said leap). Sure the landmarks that date back thousands of years are fascinating and worth the trip alone, but the experiences from traveling internationally and emersing oneself into an unfamiliar culture (and likely unfamiliar language) is where the knowledge, adventures, and memories come in. Might I add, the guaranteed occasional travel 'hiccup', which we have all experienced and hopefully can chuckle about in the near future. Worry not, I've got a few to add to the bucket...

Arriving in any international destination is stressful and tiring in and of itself. Travelers are vulnerable, and naive at times, and unfortunately it's probably safe to say there will always be people who will take advantage of that. The first mistake we made was to veer from our original plan of taking the Leonardo Express train from the airport to Termini station, and instead, hop in a 'private shuttle' that promised to take us directly to our spot for a flat rate. After 2 hours and several circles around the same block, we got out and took to the streets ourselves. For those who haven't had the pleasure of navigating the winding streets of Rome, the map is like a jigsaw puzzle. That being said, we folded and hailed a taxi.

We had the pleasure of spending our first couple nights in Rome, in someone's apartment found on the website www.airbnb.com. Nifty little tool that is! Strongly recommended for those who prefer to get a taste of the local vibe and avoid the touristy feeling hotels tend to give. We ambitiously covered most of the hotspots on our 'to-see' list within the first 2 days but this goal could easily be spread out into a leisurely week. Because of the history and sheer beauty in most of the Roman attractions, the ungodly amount of people milling and herding about didn't deter us from personally visiting each spot on our hotlist.

The Colosseum is such a fascinating architectural masterpiece, it's easy to be taken away by its beauty and block out (albeit momentarily) what appears to be a carnival going on around it. While the Trevi Fountain is a magical sight, the tourist masses that surround it at any given hour during the day definitely take some of the glory away. A suggestion: visit the Trevi at night, after 9 or 1opm. The glow of the water and the (hopefully) more serene setting will make you want to pull out a sleeping bag and settle in. Piazza Novona, a favorite of mine, is an absolutely charming (but quite large) square dotted with glorious fountains and lined with outdoor restaurants and cafes. A perfect spot to take a break from the sight-seeing, cool off with gelato or campari soda, and people watch...for hours. A final shout out in my handful of favorites, the Spanish Steps. I had visited the steps years ago, during the day, with what felt like every other tourist in Rome at the time, and I was honestly unmoved. This time, following a tip from Shawn's uncle, we brought a bottle of wine and a couple glasses to the top of the steps right around sundown. Now that was moving. Yes, the steps were still bustling, but the people watching was phenomenal and everyone was leisurely enjoying their beverage of choice and sharing the evening with fellow travelers from around the world. A truly memorable moment!

As much as we wanted to splurge and dive into the cuisine that every adorable outdoor cafe or restaurant had to offer, we were, afterall, travelers on a budget. However, one 'special' meal is a must when visiting a new place! Although there's not a whole lot that typically sets one outdoor restaurant apart from another one 10 feet away, we do like to think that we hand-picked one of the best :) Re degli Amici serves your typical Romanesca cuisine, exactly what we were looking for. Un litre di vino rosso, prosciutto parma, pizza di regina (no-sauce pizza with tuna, tomatoes, onions, and olive oil), and denti di elefante (seafood pasta) made for a truly sublime experience. No need for another 'splurge' to muttle the memory of that meal. Rome had left us visually satisfied and physically satiated. Va bene!

Florence & Tuscany

Upon arriving in Florence, I was delighted to find many of the city's characteristics differ from those of Rome. Refreshing! Florence welcomed us with fewer cars (more scooters), countless market-filled streets, a plethora of patisseries (to my pleasant surprise!), and a slightly more 'welcomed' feel than the loud, racing streets of Rome. The Florentine cuisine seemed to offer a bit more variety to its international visitors than Rome, but it is understood that the center of any major tourist city is not always an accurate example of what the entire city has to offer. Regardless, it is a lovely city, accomodating to those on foot, and its modest size makes it easy to cover in a couple of days.

Unlike our 'to see' list for Rome, we weren't very prepared to tour Florence and hit all of the hotspots. The massive Duomo is by far the main attraction, and what felt like the social hub of the city. Climb the 460 steps to the top, for a stunning panoramic view of the city and a sea of terra cotta roofs. There is also a chance to view the entire city from atop the hill at the Piazza Michelangelo, an area referred to by the locals as 'the Beverly Hills of Florence'.

Another plus to Florence is its proximity to the unending rolling hills and breathtaking beauty of Tuscany! A day trip into Tuscany is an absolute must, especially if you're staying in Florence. Better yet? A bike tour through Tuscany. You'll be pinching yourself. Tuscany Bike Tours is a fantastic organization run by 2 guys, energetic and friendly as can be, with a perfect day in mind. For a modest 80 euro, they drive you 40 minutes outside of Florence, into the Tuscan hills and up through the winding streets to Castelle di Poppiano. Both a castle where royalty reside, as well as an olive oil mill and winery. A fascinating tour followed by a mid-morning 'Tuscan snack' of bread, olive oil, and wine was a fitting substitution for carbo-loading before mounting the bikes.

A rather leisure 13 mile ride with a classic Tuscan lunch of pasta in between, left me wondering if I just dreamt the last 8 hours of my life. An extraordinary way to explore majestical land!
Cinque Terre

"The Five Lands." Lacking any visible 'modern development', the stretch of five villages that make up Cinque Terre in the Italian Riviera is undoubtedly the most beautiful, awe-inspiring piece of land I have ever witnessed with my own eyes. The colorful housing stacked up on cliffs, with the turquoise sea glistening below is a picture many may think could only be imagined. Running from north to south, the five towns that make up this paradise are: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. Trains and ferry boats connect the five villages, but the greatest (and most adventurous) option are the rugged hiking trails that line the coast. How could anyone pass an experience like that up?! Each hike between towns varies in intensity and incline; from a paved path connecting Riomaggiore to Manarola, to an extremely steep and narrow stretch between Vernazza and Monterosso, the total time it takes to hike the entire five towns is roughly 5 hours. I would strongly recommend NOT hiking it all at once, as visiting each town and getting a glimpse of the different personalities is the best part!

Due to a 'hiccup' train strike (apparently a common practice that lasts 24 hrs), we were stalled in La Spezia and advised to take a taxi to our destination. Of course our destination was almost 50 miles away, so our only option was to share a 90 euro taxi ride with two women heading to Monterosso. *Tip #367 - your plans WILL change-flexibility is essential when traveling abroad!* Little did we know, this was a blessing in disguise, giving us the opportunity to rest and soak in the fresh coastal air after a 45 minute stomach churning taxi ride through the mountains. With the help of a friendly couple (and a trusty Rick Steve's guidebook), we lucked out and snagged the last room at Albergo Marina hotel. A charming, clean, and very orderly hotel with a free continental breakfast and happy hour that go above and beyond even those in the States. The rest of our time in Monterosso was spent exploring both the 'Old' and 'New' towns, lounging on the beach and in the bay, and wandering the narrow, colorful streets lined with pizza, wine, and non-tacky souvenir shops. This sprawling town was bustling with energy, and we would later discover that it is the largest of the five towns. Definitely the town to stay in if you typically try to avoid the quiet and quaint feel.
The Cinque Terre tourist information office helped us plot out our hiking route and equipped us with the 'Cinque Terre' pass to take to the trails (or use other modes of transportation between towns). Feeling like a couple of sherpas, we set out for the first leg of the hike from Monterosso to Vernazza with all of our belongings on our backs. A challenging hour and a half hike with many (literal) ups and downs, but the view of the coast along the way was the greatest distraction one could ask for. Once Vernazza's rounded bay came into view, it felt like we had been traveling up a rainbow and were approaching on the pot of gold! Arriving in Vernazza felt similar to that of Monterosso, but more of an intimate feel where everyone feels like extended family. Anxiously waiting to cool off, we dipped into the chilly Mediterranean and took the rest of the day to lounge by the water, drinks in hand, and people watch.

As much as these towns scream "Relax! You're in paradise!!", we had some major ground to cover the following day. I was determined to not only hit but rather visit and explore all five towns, so we started the grueling hike (sans the big backpacks!) from Vernazza to Corniglia. Due to a rockslide on the coastal path, we had the lovely option to take the steeper route half way, then walk the road as it descended into Corniglia. Aside from catching a glimpse of a wild boar, this hike was relatively uneventful as we were surrounded by brush and unable to see the coast. The arrival into Corniglia from the road was a bit anti-climactic but this town perched high on a cliff was charming as can be. Definitely the least energetic town of the five, but the touristy feel was almost non-existent and I appreciated that. A nice little panini lunch in the shade, and we were ready for the next leg!

Unfortunately, more rockslides between Corniglia and Manarola left us no other option but to take the train. Admittingly tired and sun-soaked, we willingly took the 3 minute train ride to Manarola, but luckily the path from the train station provided the exact view you can scroll to the top of this page and find! I FOUND IT! The town, the VIEW, I have been daydreaming about for years but never able to put a familiar name to it, was right in front of me. What a feeling! Manarola was, fittingly, one of my favorites. A delicious mix between the busy-ness of Monterosso, and the small village feel of Vernazza, squished into one beautiful setting! A decent sized bay but with large rocks, quarry-like, instead of a sand beach. Picturesque to say the least.

Exhausted, yes. Exhilerated, YES! One town left, and the final 'hike' was conveniently the easiest stretch of them all. Literally a paved path from Manrola to Riomaggiore, and by far the most populated paths we had come across yet. Riomaggiore held all of the aesthetic characteristics of the other 4 towns, yet the feeling of uniqueness was missing for me. Unable to pinpoint what it was, I chalked it up to a full day of amazing sights and adorable communities to the point where maybe it was all running together? A beautiful and bustling town that seemed to give off more of a touristy feel than the others. Regardless, this was the 5th and final stop in (my) quest to set foot in each gem of the Cinque Terre. I wanted to do it all over again. Alas, my body didn't, and we were ready for some much deserved food and relaxation, so we hopped the train back to Vernazza.


As I mentioned earlier, although we were travelers on a budget, we certainly did not fail to enjoy some memorable meals...in creative ways. From take-out pizza on the beach, to a make-shift meal of crackers, cheese, anchovies and wine on a terrace overlooking the sea, and even a special pasta meal in the center of Vernazza, we were simply in heaven.

A trip abroad is often perfect in anticipation, stressful, exhilerating, and even relaxing in the midst of it all, and a life-changing experience as a memory. Although the details didn't play out as we had naively imagined, it was a true adventure, and most definitely the trip of a lifetime. Although this was a trip I had been dreaming about for years, and prepared to view it as a 'once in a lifetime' trip, I do foresee a return trip in the future...

THIS is what I LOVE about traveling. The way it changes us, ever-so-slightly.