No disrespect to all of the fine people that brave through those ungodly humid summers, shell out annual hurricane insurance, and accept that life just moves a little slower down there. I am well aware that there is some unparalelled beauty and culture that make up the 11 states of the South. Maybe it's my aversion to the fried cuisine, or knowing that I am the last person that should be hanging out in the Bible Belt, or maybe I just didn't know enough about this section of the country to get out and explore it. Fortunately for me, a dear friend moved to Baton Rouge for school and the seal was forced to be broken.
Louisiana's capital city is certainly not hustling and bustling. With a sprawling lay out pushing 79 square miles and a population of around 230,000, Baton Rouge's country look matches the 'country numbers'. (For perspective, Minneapolis' 58 square miles holds 388,000). Smattered with Chick-fil-A's, Raising Cane's, and a lot of tonka trucks, there's nothing wildly different than any other suburb in my book. Correction, there is Louisiana State University's campus which is said to be a nice little haven.....maybe we'll consider Baton Rouge to be a nice little college town? Moving on...
New Orleans, however, you've got character. You've got depth and resilience. You've got a vibrant nightlife and music scene. You've got grub that'll make your heart stop. Colorful houses and buildings with big window shutters and french doors. Balconys on every building. Hurricanes and hand grenades being consumed at 10am on any given day. To me, it's a mix between Duval Street in Key West, and the debauchery of the Vegas Strip. Even our drive into New Orleans, crossing Lake Pontchartrain, felt like we were driving through the Florida Keys.
There's definitely a laid back feel swirling through the streets of NOLA, and I appreciate that. As one who even has a hard time walking slowly on the beach, I'll be the first to say we (collectively) need to slow it down. Eat a beignet. Drink a hurricane every now and again. (maybe once a year will suffice, but it's a nice thought) Maybe the laid back living makes people more pleasant because we had some experiences that rivaled our own 'Minnesota Nice'. Take notes, y'all.
The infamous Bourbon Street definitely lived up to my expectations. 365 days a year this rue is hoppin'; you don't need to visit during Mardi Gras to walk away with some beads and a 48 hour hangover. Although the 13 block stretch is literally made up of bars, restaurants, and strip clubs, I didn't find it nearly as raunchy as the Vegas Strip, littered with cards promoting adult entertainment options. Drinks at The Old Absinthe House are a must, just to check out the walls plastered with business cards. (Is that the modern way of etching your initials in your favorite tree?) Throw in a couple of sugary hurricanes at Pat O'Briens and you'll fall right in step with the herd, inching and stumbling down the street. Personally, my favorite spot was the balcony. Bourbon Street people watching at its finest, folks. They don't make this stuff up.
If Bourbon Street isn't your scene, and you prefer to keep it classy, check out the Carousel Bar at Hotel Monteleone on Royal Street. An old, elegantly decorated bar that isn't exactly a natural transition from the joints on Bourbon Street (experienced first hand). You can try to snag seats at the actual Carousel Bar that slowly rotates, but after a couple of drinks, a spinning bar is one of the last places one would find me sitting. No interest in day drinking? Meander towards Jackson Square and take a gander at the sidewalk art or sit on the steps and watch the street performers of the moment. While you're there, you may as well get in line at Cafe du Monde for a bag of some fluffy beignets and chickory coffee. Spend some quality time on Canal Street, lined with shopping, dining, and entertainment hotspots. It's a perfect starting point to get your bearings, then let the southern wind take you further into the Big Easy abyss.
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| Carousel Bar |
Might I suggest you let the wind blow you Northwest of the city for a day trip along the River Road? A pretty, winding, albeit slower drive, this route is dotted with magnificent plantations that bring you back to the pre-Civil War era. We checked out Oak Alley Plantation, drawn in by the breathtaking grounds (i.e. the actual alley of oaks). While the guided tour through the Antebellum mansion provided some interesting history, the entrance fee of $20 seemed a bit high just to check out four rooms in the house and wander through majestic oaks. Regardless, a pretty cool experience to set foot on such historical grounds and take a mini trip back in time.
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| Oak Alley Plantation |
Of course no trip is complete without dipping into some culinary adventures, and New Orleans provides plenty of opportunities to expand that edible comfort zone. As one who doesn't do much dabbling in the world of fried foods, I was prepared to take a leap from my 'safe foods' and gobble up some southern cookin'. How 'bout starting with some fried alligator from Cochon in New Orleans warehouse district? Don't mind if I do...just give me five minutes to chew it. It's next to impossible to find a sandwich that isn't filled with fried meat or fish, but there actually is a notable difference between your $8 crabcake poboy from the bar, and your fancy $12 fried oyster poboy from Cochon. So, whatever that's worth. Beignets from Cafe du Monde were the highlight for me, but really, a bag full of powdered sugar and only three beignets?? Since when does the South worry about portion control? I could've inhaled six more of those deep fried clouds but I suppose that's just another reason for a return trip someday. Finishing off a day and night of imbibing, with some creamy grits from Surrey's Uptown for breakfast is a perfect stomach settler, ideally followed by an early afternoon nap. Heck, any of this rich cuisine will make you want to curl up and just let the grease slowly soak in. Maybe that's the big secret to slowing down. Maybe we all just need a little grease.
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| Fried Alligator |
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| Beignets |
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| Shrimp n Grits |
We all know that any trip that involves visiting good friends is going to be a good time. We could've visited them in Cedar Rapids, Iowa and still had a blast. But then we would've missed out on a section of the U.S. that should never be ignored. I will no longer assume that any part of the country, or world for that matter, is 'not for me'. Who knows, maybe we'll get lucky and their next move will be to Wichita, Kansas.
